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Actual golden doors welcome guests into the sanctuary.

Unwind + Unplug

Golden Door: The gold standard of spas.

The Golden Door is a legendary place.  At its heart and soul is the remarkable vision of its founder, Deborah Szekely, who opened the Door in 1958.

Her ideas about eating organic foods, exercising as a way of daily
living, and making time to assess and balance your life still imbue this venerable gold standard of spa destinations.

I was never a spa-goer before my first trip to the original Golden Door in Escondido, California, three years ago, when I was recovering from ACL surgery. The Door had just been sold, and at the time many longtime devotees (who range from A-listers and alpha types to once-sedentary housewives) were worried it would become corporate; others found it tired. A recent visit confirmed that not only has the Door kept its heart and soul, but it's also made some great new upgrades, like a fantastic 4,000-square-foot gym.

On my return, I loved that magical feeling of entering a world of its own, literally through a "golden door," with its golden Southern California light still gleaming. The serene Japanese-inn-style architecture, landscaping, and Zen-spare rooms arranged around courtyards still wowed me with its simplicity: a place to unwind and unplug (there's no TVs in the rooms, but it's up to you to turn off the BlackBerry and your overworked brain). You can still pack at a moment's notice, and there's no stress about what to wear: All workout clothes are supplied, the daily laundering is taken care of, and yes, people do wear the signature Japanese kimonos to dinner.

The staff was as cheerful and caring as I remembered from three years ago; a third have been here 10 years or more. The Door has some of the world's most expert therapists and fitness, yoga, and Pilates instructors. The food, under chef Dean Rucker, was better than ever, with dishes ranging from Japanese bento-box lunches of udon noodles or low-calorie pizza to dinners of caramelized tofu or Colorado lamb. Most of the produce and fruit come fresh from the spa's organic garden.

Your program is up to you: Do as much or as little as you want. Figure out what you need (with your adviser as a guide) and you will find it at the Door. For most guests, the day begins with sunrise hikes in the crisp morning air. Or if you are in need of rest, sleep in and take a leisurely breakfast in your room. Your daily schedule comes the night before on a fan-shaped card, one of those touches that make this place feel special. After breakfast, scramble off to classes that focus on cardio, core, or dancing, or to a private weight-training session. Part of making time for yourself is trying classes that range from how to get happy to meditative labyrinth walks. Treatments are for afternoons, and there's a daily in-room massage. The inside track is that Daniel does the best deep-tissue and Thai work and that Kim's lymphatic-drainage massage, consisting of gentle, rhythmic pressure, has a lullaby effect.

The Door is renowned for the bonding that takes place amongst guests; on this last trip I met jeweler and dedicated Door devotee Paula Crevoshay, who will have her next show at Aspen's Caribou Jewels this winter.  Like her, I've become a Door devotee.

A seven day Sunday-to-Sunday stay is $7,995, and three and four day Spa Interludes range from $3,625 to $4,725, 800-424-0777, www.goldendoor.com